MATERIALS
Materials are the building blocks of the clothing industry and they can be made from almost anything from experimental fibres to industrial synthetics. Either way the materials have come from somewhere and taking a closer look at them makes assessing their ethical and environmental impact easier.
But because of the global distribution of production within the clothing industry this part of the cycle can be the hardest to relate to...what do have to do with a farmer 5,000 miles away or the pollutant processes of synthetic fibre production? We say...EVERYTHING!
You choose what you buy and every time you put your hand in your pocket you cast your vote..
Materials are the building blocks of the clothing industry and they can be made from almost anything from experimental fibres to industrial synthetics. Either way the materials have come from somewhere and taking a closer look at them makes assessing their ethical and environmental impact easier.
But because of the global distribution of production within the clothing industry this part of the cycle can be the hardest to relate to...what do have to do with a farmer 5,000 miles away or the pollutant processes of synthetic fibre production? We say...EVERYTHING!
You choose what you buy and every time you put your hand in your pocket you cast your vote..
THE BETTER FASHION INITIATIVE
WATCH
BETTER FASHION INFORMATION AND RESOURSES
What ever you're wearing from a T-shirt to a dress, that garment has come through a long and complex supply chain to get to you. Those jeans you love might be made of cotton picked in Africa, spun in India then made in China with a zip from Taiwan rivets from Bangladesh and labels from Europe... (Phew!)
But at every stage in this system there are examples of environmental, social and economic imbalance. This means that at every stage people and the environment they live in are suffering.
We've put together the information below so that you are more informed when it comes to putting your hand in your pocket and can make BETTER FASHION choices.The image above illustrates the linear system that the clothing supply chain most commonly follows. Under each heading we've listed some of the environmental, social and economic complexities of the Industry.
What ever you're wearing from a T-shirt to a dress, that garment has come through a long and complex supply chain to get to you. Those jeans you love might be made of cotton picked in Africa, spun in India then made in China with a zip from Taiwan rivets from Bangladesh and labels from Europe... (Phew!)
But at every stage in this system there are examples of environmental, social and economic imbalance. This means that at every stage people and the environment they live in are suffering.
We've put together the information below so that you are more informed when it comes to putting your hand in your pocket and can make BETTER FASHION choices.The image above illustrates the linear system that the clothing supply chain most commonly follows. Under each heading we've listed some of the environmental, social and economic complexities of the Industry.
PRODUCTION
Poverty wages, lack of rights and poor working conditions are still the norm for millions of garments workers across the world, depriving them of their internationally recognised human rights. The complexities at this stage of the lifecycle are vast ranging from subcontracting by factories to satisfy orders to the quashing of trade union activity. In conjunction with Comhlamh and Mandate , Re-dress set up the Irish branch of the Clean Clothes Campaign to highlight injustices at this stage of the lifecyle. Log on to Cleanclothescampaignireland.org to learn more
Poverty wages, lack of rights and poor working conditions are still the norm for millions of garments workers across the world, depriving them of their internationally recognised human rights. The complexities at this stage of the lifecycle are vast ranging from subcontracting by factories to satisfy orders to the quashing of trade union activity. In conjunction with Comhlamh and Mandate , Re-dress set up the Irish branch of the Clean Clothes Campaign to highlight injustices at this stage of the lifecyle. Log on to Cleanclothescampaignireland.org to learn more
RETAIL
SO WHAT IS A CARBON FOOTPRINT?
A carbon footprint is a measure of the impact our activities have on the environment, and in particular climate change. It relates to the amount of greenhouse gases produced in our day-to-day lives through burning fossil fuels for electricity, heating and transportation etc.
The carbon footprint is a measurement of all greenhouse gases we individually produce and has units of tonnes (or kg) of carbon dioxide equivalent.
The fact that after all the processes that go into making your garments, from chemical dying to the thousands of air miles it's taken to get to you...it is you that contributes to 80% of your garments footprint!
The good news is this means that you have all the say! The even better part is that all the things you need to do mean less work for you!
Sit back, relax, put your feet up and save the planet!
A carbon footprint is a measure of the impact our activities have on the environment, and in particular climate change. It relates to the amount of greenhouse gases produced in our day-to-day lives through burning fossil fuels for electricity, heating and transportation etc.
The carbon footprint is a measurement of all greenhouse gases we individually produce and has units of tonnes (or kg) of carbon dioxide equivalent.
The fact that after all the processes that go into making your garments, from chemical dying to the thousands of air miles it's taken to get to you...it is you that contributes to 80% of your garments footprint!
The good news is this means that you have all the say! The even better part is that all the things you need to do mean less work for you!
Sit back, relax, put your feet up and save the planet!
One T-Shirt uses up to 4kg of CO2 in its lifetime.
Just these few simple steps can save time, money and a little bit of the world!
- Choose a chemical free detergent
- Wash at 30 degrees
- Do not tumble dry
- Hang dry to avoid ironing
Just these few simple steps can save time, money and a little bit of the world!
- Choose a chemical free detergent
- Wash at 30 degrees
- Do not tumble dry
- Hang dry to avoid ironing
USE
The ‘use phase’ of a garment is the most energy intensive part of the garments lifecycle. The washing and drying a polyester blouse can use five times more energy than the energy used to produce it in the first place.
CARE OF GARMENTS
Less than 10% of garments are considered to be heavily soiled enough after wearing to merit washing at high temperatures. Garments we change on a daily basis generally only need a ‘daily wash’ or ‘quick wash’ setting on our machines. It is also more energy efficient to put on a full washing machine load than it is to wash half a machine of clothing. In essence we need to alter our methods of caring for our clothing, which will help them to last longer, save energy and save money.
Washing detergents contain phosphates. They are chemicals that are used to clean our clothes but they are harmful to the environment, polluting waterways and threatening wildlife. They dissolve completely in water and are difficult to remove from water systems via wastewater treatment plants. When they enter water courses they stimulate the overproduction of algae which utilises the oxygen in the water system, killing fish and other plant life. Tumble drying garments uses up energy that could be saved by line drying. The process of dry cleaning clothing involves using solvents to remove stains instead of water. The solvent typically used is tetrachloroethylene. It has excellent cleaning power, is non-flammable and gently on clothing. However it has been classed as a carcinogen, it is an irritant and may be toxic to skin, liver, kidneys and the nervous system.
REUSE, RECYCLING AND UPCYCLING
Textiles collected from bring bank facilities all over Ireland are generally sorted in Dublin. The majority of these textiles are sent out of Ireland for reuse (re-wear). Textiles that are not suitable for re-wear are recycled using various processes (shredding) and used for flocking for mattresses, animal bedding etc. In 2005, 10,000 tonnes of clothing, shoes and household textiles were reused in Ireland via charity collections.
Textile recycling can be carried out mechanically (ripping and tearing the fabric apart) or by chemical means. The market for recycled natural textiles is underdeveloped in Ireland. Synthetic fabrics are recycled by breaking them down to polymer level and remaking them. Another means of producing recycled fabrics is by making them from recycled raw materials, e.g. plastic drink bottles being made into fabrics for garments. There is controversy surrounding this method as plastic bottles can contain a carcinogen called antimony which can have adverse effects when it is exposed to human skin for prolonged amounts of time.
Upcycling: Gill Baugh, the author of 'The Fashion Designer Textile Industry - the creative use of fabrics in design' coins the term as 'the reappropriation of fabric that has already had one life for one purpose, and reworking, reassigning or reinventing it to give it a new life serving a different purpose/aesthetic’.
The changing attitude of the consumer: Perhaps its ‘these recessionary times’ or perhaps we have become more environmentally conscious... either way the attitude of the Irish consumer has moved away from fast fashion to more sustainable options. Leasing, hiring, renting and lending clothing have all gained popularity in recent years. As have events like ‘clothes swaps’.
The ‘use phase’ of a garment is the most energy intensive part of the garments lifecycle. The washing and drying a polyester blouse can use five times more energy than the energy used to produce it in the first place.
CARE OF GARMENTS
Less than 10% of garments are considered to be heavily soiled enough after wearing to merit washing at high temperatures. Garments we change on a daily basis generally only need a ‘daily wash’ or ‘quick wash’ setting on our machines. It is also more energy efficient to put on a full washing machine load than it is to wash half a machine of clothing. In essence we need to alter our methods of caring for our clothing, which will help them to last longer, save energy and save money.
Washing detergents contain phosphates. They are chemicals that are used to clean our clothes but they are harmful to the environment, polluting waterways and threatening wildlife. They dissolve completely in water and are difficult to remove from water systems via wastewater treatment plants. When they enter water courses they stimulate the overproduction of algae which utilises the oxygen in the water system, killing fish and other plant life. Tumble drying garments uses up energy that could be saved by line drying. The process of dry cleaning clothing involves using solvents to remove stains instead of water. The solvent typically used is tetrachloroethylene. It has excellent cleaning power, is non-flammable and gently on clothing. However it has been classed as a carcinogen, it is an irritant and may be toxic to skin, liver, kidneys and the nervous system.
REUSE, RECYCLING AND UPCYCLING
Textiles collected from bring bank facilities all over Ireland are generally sorted in Dublin. The majority of these textiles are sent out of Ireland for reuse (re-wear). Textiles that are not suitable for re-wear are recycled using various processes (shredding) and used for flocking for mattresses, animal bedding etc. In 2005, 10,000 tonnes of clothing, shoes and household textiles were reused in Ireland via charity collections.
Textile recycling can be carried out mechanically (ripping and tearing the fabric apart) or by chemical means. The market for recycled natural textiles is underdeveloped in Ireland. Synthetic fabrics are recycled by breaking them down to polymer level and remaking them. Another means of producing recycled fabrics is by making them from recycled raw materials, e.g. plastic drink bottles being made into fabrics for garments. There is controversy surrounding this method as plastic bottles can contain a carcinogen called antimony which can have adverse effects when it is exposed to human skin for prolonged amounts of time.
Upcycling: Gill Baugh, the author of 'The Fashion Designer Textile Industry - the creative use of fabrics in design' coins the term as 'the reappropriation of fabric that has already had one life for one purpose, and reworking, reassigning or reinventing it to give it a new life serving a different purpose/aesthetic’.
The changing attitude of the consumer: Perhaps its ‘these recessionary times’ or perhaps we have become more environmentally conscious... either way the attitude of the Irish consumer has moved away from fast fashion to more sustainable options. Leasing, hiring, renting and lending clothing have all gained popularity in recent years. As have events like ‘clothes swaps’.
DISPOSAL
Fast fashion = fast disposal. With high street stores and supermarkets now producing clothing, prices have plumetted over the last 10 years. The fall in price has driven consumption upwards by 40% in the same time. Cheap production means that garments we buy have a shorter lifespan and in many cases are made with a low fibre count and In turn are of less quality. As a result fast fashion becomes throw away fashion.
THE FACTS
225,000 tones of textile waste are disposed of in Ireland each year. Recycling these textiles would reduce direct greenhouse gas emissions by over 300,000 tones per annum (equivalent to reducing annual car use by almost 50,000 cars). Traditionally up to 90% of textiles were recycled to be used as industry rags, or recycled into insulation and other building products. In Ireland it is estimated that only 4% of textiles are recycled. Where are yours going?
Incineration: the products of incineration of uncontaminated waste are carbon dioxide and water vapour. The water vapour produced can be used to power the incineration process. Incineration of waste is not available in Ireland at the moment, most contaminated textile waste is shipped to other European countries to be incinerated there. Incineration of contaminated waste produces dioxins as a by product, which are considered to be a serious health hazard.
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WHAT IS FIBRE?
Fibres are the basic building block of textiles. They are tiny hair-like strands that are combined to make yarn and fabric. There are two types of strands; stable strands which are short like cotton, and filament strands which are long continuous strands like those of man-made fabrics like polyester. Fibres come from natural sources like wool from sheep, or man-made sources for example polyester which is made from plastic. The fibre tree below outlines the main fabre types and sources.
Fibres are the basic building block of textiles. They are tiny hair-like strands that are combined to make yarn and fabric. There are two types of strands; stable strands which are short like cotton, and filament strands which are long continuous strands like those of man-made fabrics like polyester. Fibres come from natural sources like wool from sheep, or man-made sources for example polyester which is made from plastic. The fibre tree below outlines the main fabre types and sources.
FIBRE TREE
NATURAL FIBRES - PROTEIN
Wool has been produced in Ireland for centuries. Woolen mills like Donegal yarn, Foxford Mills and Avoca Handweavers use traditional methods to produce woollen yarn as a raw material for textiles. Wool is a sustainable material, it is renewable - it is produced annually from sheep flocks. It can also be ethically produced if the sheep are fed grass that is free from pesticides and if they are not dipped in chemical baths to treat the wool. Considering the energy used in the production of textiles for the garment industry, wool uses a third less that that of cotton and a fifth less than that of nylon. Despite being a sustainable raw material, wool needs quite an amount of ''finishing' to make it usable. Some of the stages of finishing include carbonising, fulling, bleaching and dying, which use water and chemicals in their processes. Sheep are generally an introduced species in environments where they are held in large numbers (monoculture), this means that they can have adverse effects the local environment including established wildlife. Sheep graze very close to the root of grass, meaning it can take a long time for the crop to recover and this can leave large areas of land bare for long periods of time. Australia is the worlds largest producer of wool, with 350 million kilograms produced from 75 million sheep in 2010/2011. Biological wool shearing has been introduced experimentally in Australia. This involves injecting an artificial growth factor into sheep to interrupt hair growth. This results in breaks in the wool fibre within a month, the fleece can then be pulled off in half the time it takes to shear a sheep.
Wool has been produced in Ireland for centuries. Woolen mills like Donegal yarn, Foxford Mills and Avoca Handweavers use traditional methods to produce woollen yarn as a raw material for textiles. Wool is a sustainable material, it is renewable - it is produced annually from sheep flocks. It can also be ethically produced if the sheep are fed grass that is free from pesticides and if they are not dipped in chemical baths to treat the wool. Considering the energy used in the production of textiles for the garment industry, wool uses a third less that that of cotton and a fifth less than that of nylon. Despite being a sustainable raw material, wool needs quite an amount of ''finishing' to make it usable. Some of the stages of finishing include carbonising, fulling, bleaching and dying, which use water and chemicals in their processes. Sheep are generally an introduced species in environments where they are held in large numbers (monoculture), this means that they can have adverse effects the local environment including established wildlife. Sheep graze very close to the root of grass, meaning it can take a long time for the crop to recover and this can leave large areas of land bare for long periods of time. Australia is the worlds largest producer of wool, with 350 million kilograms produced from 75 million sheep in 2010/2011. Biological wool shearing has been introduced experimentally in Australia. This involves injecting an artificial growth factor into sheep to interrupt hair growth. This results in breaks in the wool fibre within a month, the fleece can then be pulled off in half the time it takes to shear a sheep.
STEPS INVOLVED IN WOOL FINISHING
Raw wool
Scouring
Carbonising
Drying
Blending
Carding
Spinning
Winding
Raw wool
Scouring
Carbonising
Drying
Blending
Carding
Spinning
Winding
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Silk production originated in China over 5000 years ago and the techniques have not changed dramatically. Silk is produced from the chrysalis of the silkworm. Cultivated silk is produced in a sericulture system and results in the death of the silk moth chrysalis after if has spun its cocoon. Wild (tussah or peace) silk is produced in a much more humane way - it allows the silk moth to emerge from its cocoon unharmed - but produced silk with a shorter staple length. The process is outlined below. Silk production is not limited to the silkworm. Spiders produce a silk that is stronger than its equivalent weight in steel. Experiments infusing genetically enhanced goats with spider silk genes at genetic level have led to the production of goat milk that includes the spider silk protein. The silk is removed from the milk and spun into yarn much like that of the silkworm.
CELLULOSE FIBRES - COTTON
Cotton 4.5 trillion litres of water is used to produce the 252 billion kilograms of cotton used in the world annually. 148 trillion litres of oil and 90 billion litres of chemicals are also used in the process. The challenges associated with producing sustainable cotton include reducing the amounts of pesticides, water chemicals and fertilisers used in the process. Organic cotton is produced in a system that does not use synthetic pesticides, fertilisers or insecticides. Presently, only 1% of the worlds cotton is produced organically. Low-chemical cotton production is feasible but is not the preferred method as it increases the use for manual labour. Low water-use cotton production takes place in areas with high rainfall that can be manipulated to irrigate crops, however the irrigation lines need to be lain by hand at the beginning of the season and are automatically destroyed by mechanical means at the end of every season. Fairtrade cotton production has come to the forefront in recent years with companies like Marks and Spenser committing to using the material in its clothing production. It benefits the cotton farmers that produce the crop by working with them to guaratee fair wages and working conditions. A huge amount of the cotton produced in the world today happens in Uzbekistan. The film short 'White Gold' (see sidebar for link) gives a shocking account of the unsustainable production process and slave-like working conditions faced by cotton-pickers (mainly young children) in this country. It also highlights the depletion of the Aral Sea water resource which led to the collapse of the fishing industry. Europe buys a third of the cotton produced in Uzbekistan, supporting substandard working conditions, the depletion of environmental resources and increasing the demand for unsustainable products.
Cotton 4.5 trillion litres of water is used to produce the 252 billion kilograms of cotton used in the world annually. 148 trillion litres of oil and 90 billion litres of chemicals are also used in the process. The challenges associated with producing sustainable cotton include reducing the amounts of pesticides, water chemicals and fertilisers used in the process. Organic cotton is produced in a system that does not use synthetic pesticides, fertilisers or insecticides. Presently, only 1% of the worlds cotton is produced organically. Low-chemical cotton production is feasible but is not the preferred method as it increases the use for manual labour. Low water-use cotton production takes place in areas with high rainfall that can be manipulated to irrigate crops, however the irrigation lines need to be lain by hand at the beginning of the season and are automatically destroyed by mechanical means at the end of every season. Fairtrade cotton production has come to the forefront in recent years with companies like Marks and Spenser committing to using the material in its clothing production. It benefits the cotton farmers that produce the crop by working with them to guaratee fair wages and working conditions. A huge amount of the cotton produced in the world today happens in Uzbekistan. The film short 'White Gold' (see sidebar for link) gives a shocking account of the unsustainable production process and slave-like working conditions faced by cotton-pickers (mainly young children) in this country. It also highlights the depletion of the Aral Sea water resource which led to the collapse of the fishing industry. Europe buys a third of the cotton produced in Uzbekistan, supporting substandard working conditions, the depletion of environmental resources and increasing the demand for unsustainable products.
MINERAL FIBRES
Mineral fibres are made from natural or synthetic minerals or metal oxides. They include fibres like amianto, a hydrate of calcium and magnesium with great insulating power, glass fibres which are obtained by stretching molten glass (fibreglass) and metal filaments obtained by stretching metal threads (lurex).
Mineral fibres are made from natural or synthetic minerals or metal oxides. They include fibres like amianto, a hydrate of calcium and magnesium with great insulating power, glass fibres which are obtained by stretching molten glass (fibreglass) and metal filaments obtained by stretching metal threads (lurex).
SYNTHETIC FIBRES
Synthetic fibres were first produced as an experiment to improve on the qualities of natural fibres. the first synthetic fibre ‘rayon’ was mass produced around the time of World War II as a replacement for silk. It is most famously known as being the component of ladies stockings but was also used to replace silk in parachutes and other military items. There are many ways to produce synthetic fibres but the most common way is to heat the materials to melt them, draw out the molecules and force them through a ‘spineretes’ forming a continuous thread. The compounds used to make these fibres come from raw materials like petrochemicals.
Lyocell is the generic name for a high performance viscose fibre produced from wood pulp. Amine oxide, a non-toxic solvent is recycled in the closed loop production process. The fibre is very versatile and can be used as a weave or blended with other fabrics. Products made from lyocell can be recycled, incinerated, landfilled or degraded in anaerobic digestion facilities.
Synthetic fibres were first produced as an experiment to improve on the qualities of natural fibres. the first synthetic fibre ‘rayon’ was mass produced around the time of World War II as a replacement for silk. It is most famously known as being the component of ladies stockings but was also used to replace silk in parachutes and other military items. There are many ways to produce synthetic fibres but the most common way is to heat the materials to melt them, draw out the molecules and force them through a ‘spineretes’ forming a continuous thread. The compounds used to make these fibres come from raw materials like petrochemicals.
Lyocell is the generic name for a high performance viscose fibre produced from wood pulp. Amine oxide, a non-toxic solvent is recycled in the closed loop production process. The fibre is very versatile and can be used as a weave or blended with other fabrics. Products made from lyocell can be recycled, incinerated, landfilled or degraded in anaerobic digestion facilities.
LYOCELL
http://youtu.be/2M3fVYBsZrw
UNCONVENTIONAL FIBRES
New fabrics are constantly being developed and today there are a range of unconventional fibres available for use as fabrics in the industry. One example is crab & cotton. ‘Crabyon’ fabrics are composed of shell pulp, binders and cotton. The results is a soft knit that is antibacterial, anti-odour, absorbent, durable, biodegradable and can be dyed. Some others include:
- bubble & felt: popped plastic bubble wrap is coated with industrial felt for a soft, insulating, non-woven fabric
- steel & linen: stainless steel and linen cord are hand woven together, making the fabric highly flexible one way and with shape memory the other way
- aluminium & plastic: two supple materials are combined for protection against sunlight, radiation & weather
- metal & knit: stretch polyester knitwear with a shiny silver coating that will not rip/crack
- ceramic & shell: seashells are sliced thinly and laminated onto a ceramic base
- natural & mutated: a new species of rabbit (Orylag®) was genetically mutated at the INRA in France. Its fur is as fine as cashmere, 2 to 3 times longer than chinchilla, soft as mink and the animal is raised for tender meat as well.
- 3D printed: instead of being woven this textile (plastic, metal & nylon) is conceived on a computer and created on a 3D printer, no cutting sewing or assembly required
New fabrics are constantly being developed and today there are a range of unconventional fibres available for use as fabrics in the industry. One example is crab & cotton. ‘Crabyon’ fabrics are composed of shell pulp, binders and cotton. The results is a soft knit that is antibacterial, anti-odour, absorbent, durable, biodegradable and can be dyed. Some others include:
- bubble & felt: popped plastic bubble wrap is coated with industrial felt for a soft, insulating, non-woven fabric
- steel & linen: stainless steel and linen cord are hand woven together, making the fabric highly flexible one way and with shape memory the other way
- aluminium & plastic: two supple materials are combined for protection against sunlight, radiation & weather
- metal & knit: stretch polyester knitwear with a shiny silver coating that will not rip/crack
- ceramic & shell: seashells are sliced thinly and laminated onto a ceramic base
- natural & mutated: a new species of rabbit (Orylag®) was genetically mutated at the INRA in France. Its fur is as fine as cashmere, 2 to 3 times longer than chinchilla, soft as mink and the animal is raised for tender meat as well.
- 3D printed: instead of being woven this textile (plastic, metal & nylon) is conceived on a computer and created on a 3D printer, no cutting sewing or assembly required
THE PRODUCTION CYCLE
SUSTAINABLE PRODUCTION
Cutting down forests to plant GMO crops that are cultivated to feed a greedy fashion industry that is supported by mass consumption of goods that are produced in a way that makes them last the minimum amount of time possible in an effort to keep the cycle going! The current system is unsustainable and needs to be challenged with new ways of thinking to make the future of the fashion industry a sustainable one for generations to come.
Factors such as sweatshop-free labour, energy efficient processes and low-impact dyes contribute to sustainable fashion production. The three key factors considered when distinguishing sustainable fabrics from non-sustainable fabrics include reduction in water usage, reduction in greenhouse gas emissions and reduction in chemicals used in the process.
Cutting down forests to plant GMO crops that are cultivated to feed a greedy fashion industry that is supported by mass consumption of goods that are produced in a way that makes them last the minimum amount of time possible in an effort to keep the cycle going! The current system is unsustainable and needs to be challenged with new ways of thinking to make the future of the fashion industry a sustainable one for generations to come.
Factors such as sweatshop-free labour, energy efficient processes and low-impact dyes contribute to sustainable fashion production. The three key factors considered when distinguishing sustainable fabrics from non-sustainable fabrics include reduction in water usage, reduction in greenhouse gas emissions and reduction in chemicals used in the process.
ETHICAL FASHION LABELS
- Ali Hewsons Irish fashion label Edun encourages fair trade in third world countries and also the abolition of child labour and sweatshops.
- Leslie Frew is an Irish designer who makes contemporary costume jewellery using discarded plastic bags and other consumer waste. The result is an ethical brand with a beautiful product.
- Stella McCartney is an environmental and ethically conscious brand which does not use leather or fur in their clothing lines. They also use sustainably produced raw materials in their production.
- People Tree fashion label work with 50 Fairtrade in 15 countries around the world to produce ethically sound clothing.
- ‘From Somewhere’ fashion label was set up by designer Orsolo de Castro in an effort to ‘reclaim, reuse and re-adore’ clothing. She set up Estethica with the British Fashion Council and collaborated with Tesco on an upcycled collection.
- Looolo designs are a Canadian company that provide a range of fully biodegradable products including scarves, cushions and quilts. All their raw materials are ethically produced and their products degrade fully within one year in composting facilities.
- Alabama Chanin is a lifestyle company that focus on slow design and sustainability when producing their products. All items are hand crafted by local artisans in Alabama, USA.
- Ali Hewsons Irish fashion label Edun encourages fair trade in third world countries and also the abolition of child labour and sweatshops.
- Leslie Frew is an Irish designer who makes contemporary costume jewellery using discarded plastic bags and other consumer waste. The result is an ethical brand with a beautiful product.
- Stella McCartney is an environmental and ethically conscious brand which does not use leather or fur in their clothing lines. They also use sustainably produced raw materials in their production.
- People Tree fashion label work with 50 Fairtrade in 15 countries around the world to produce ethically sound clothing.
- ‘From Somewhere’ fashion label was set up by designer Orsolo de Castro in an effort to ‘reclaim, reuse and re-adore’ clothing. She set up Estethica with the British Fashion Council and collaborated with Tesco on an upcycled collection.
- Looolo designs are a Canadian company that provide a range of fully biodegradable products including scarves, cushions and quilts. All their raw materials are ethically produced and their products degrade fully within one year in composting facilities.
- Alabama Chanin is a lifestyle company that focus on slow design and sustainability when producing their products. All items are hand crafted by local artisans in Alabama, USA.
ZERO WASTE PRODUCTION
Zero waste is not new to the fashion industry, it has been practiced via the art of kimono wearing for a very long time. However, it has recently been revamped via the concept of zero waste production.. It avoids producing textile waste in the form of fabric off-cuts (which can amount to 15% of the fabric) at the production stage. Computer programmes help designers lay the patterns on the fabric in such a way as to use as much of the fabric as possible. If the fabric is draped then the fabric piece is cut in a way that leads to no waste. Designers such as Mark Liu and Holly McQuillan are advocates of zero waste production, unfortunately the technique has yet to become popular with Irish designers.
CLOSED LOOP PRODUCTION
Synthetic materials can be produced in ‘closed-loop’ systems which recycle the chemicals used in the process. The production of lyocell is an example of this system (see diagram above)
RESOURCE WASTAGE
It is estimated that 39 million tonnes of polyester will be dyed annually by 2015, using 5850 million litres of water per year. In February 2012 the sportswear brand Nike announced that it is launching a waterless dying process for the polyester that it uses to make its sportswear. The process uses heat and pressure to fix the dye to fabric using fluid CO2 instead if using water as a solvent in the dying and finishing process.
Zero waste is not new to the fashion industry, it has been practiced via the art of kimono wearing for a very long time. However, it has recently been revamped via the concept of zero waste production.. It avoids producing textile waste in the form of fabric off-cuts (which can amount to 15% of the fabric) at the production stage. Computer programmes help designers lay the patterns on the fabric in such a way as to use as much of the fabric as possible. If the fabric is draped then the fabric piece is cut in a way that leads to no waste. Designers such as Mark Liu and Holly McQuillan are advocates of zero waste production, unfortunately the technique has yet to become popular with Irish designers.
CLOSED LOOP PRODUCTION
Synthetic materials can be produced in ‘closed-loop’ systems which recycle the chemicals used in the process. The production of lyocell is an example of this system (see diagram above)
RESOURCE WASTAGE
It is estimated that 39 million tonnes of polyester will be dyed annually by 2015, using 5850 million litres of water per year. In February 2012 the sportswear brand Nike announced that it is launching a waterless dying process for the polyester that it uses to make its sportswear. The process uses heat and pressure to fix the dye to fabric using fluid CO2 instead if using water as a solvent in the dying and finishing process.
RETAIL
SUPPLY CHAIN TRACEABILITY
Supply chain traceability makes all information associated with the production of a product public. It outlines how the product was made, where it was made, the materials that were used and where they came from. It makes this information readily available to the consumer so that they can make an educated decision on whether to purchase the goods or not. By doing this the retailer is taking a stand and saying that they have investigated the process and stand by it. This can involve visiting the factories where the products are produced and investigating the conditions of the people that work there. It also involves third party inspections of these premises to make sure everything is above board. This can make you wonder, if you do not see this information, what really happens before the product is put on the shelves? And what type of conditions are you supporting when you purchase the product? Unfair wages, long hours, toxic pollutants? When you purchase a product you cast your vote, so cast your vote wisely.
One company that is helping the consumer to do this is Marks and Spenser. The company has set itself the challenge of becoming the ‘worlds most sustainable major retailer’ by 2015. To do this they have committed to making traceability information available on clothing that it manufactures, starting with childrens clothing and moving on to all categories.
SUPPLY CHAIN TRACEABILITY
Supply chain traceability makes all information associated with the production of a product public. It outlines how the product was made, where it was made, the materials that were used and where they came from. It makes this information readily available to the consumer so that they can make an educated decision on whether to purchase the goods or not. By doing this the retailer is taking a stand and saying that they have investigated the process and stand by it. This can involve visiting the factories where the products are produced and investigating the conditions of the people that work there. It also involves third party inspections of these premises to make sure everything is above board. This can make you wonder, if you do not see this information, what really happens before the product is put on the shelves? And what type of conditions are you supporting when you purchase the product? Unfair wages, long hours, toxic pollutants? When you purchase a product you cast your vote, so cast your vote wisely.
One company that is helping the consumer to do this is Marks and Spenser. The company has set itself the challenge of becoming the ‘worlds most sustainable major retailer’ by 2015. To do this they have committed to making traceability information available on clothing that it manufactures, starting with childrens clothing and moving on to all categories.
